As spring comes in southwest Michigan, I’ve decided that it’s time to take the blog off blocks and get ready for riding season. I’ve started this riding season with a couple of short cold rides and a stop at the Suzuki dealer to find out how much an oil change would be–$110. After screwing my jaw back on I decided this would be the spring I did it myself.

What it takes to change the oil…
1 )   Oil
2 )   Filter
3 )   Stand
4 )   Spools
5 )   Oil filter wrench
6 )   Metric wrench for oil plug
7 )   Something to drain the old oil in.
8 )   Paper towels
9 )   More towels.

A quick trip to one of my favorite Suzuki shops in Plymoth, IN supplied me with the oil and filters. As an added bonus I had fun looking at all of the new and used bikes they have on the showroom floor.

The stand presented a small challenge. I did not want to spend an arm and a leg on a stand that I only use once and a while. I’m not making my living with this stand so I don’t feel I need the best stand on the market. That being said I also did not want a stand that would fall apart or damage the bike. I settled on a stand by Haul-Master purchased at Harbor Freight. It is nothing fancy but is constructed well. (I also purchased the paddles)

Unfortunately none of the shops around here had spools for the SV so I had to make do with the paddles on the new stand. They work great. No problems with slipping or anything like that.

With another trip to the store I was able to procure a filter wrench. Beyond that the changing of the oil was uneventful. I now have a bike with fresh oil that is ready for the riding season to begin.

Coming up this season…
Corbin Makes Butts Happy
Katy’s New Bike
Riding Plans

It’s time to wash the bike.  Now what?  While shopping for bikes back in February I remembered stumbling onto Triumphs website.  Triumph publishes very detailed instructions for washing their motorcycles.  It turns out there were several things that I have always done wrong.  First, I’ve always thought that more pressure is better.  It cleans faster with less elbow grease.  I did not realize that that extreme pressure can force water into bearings, and other sealed areas.  Extreme water pressure can also force water into electrical boxes that are only designed to resist water from rain. 

Second, I always figured that the stronger the soap the better it would clean.  Super concentrated soap may not rinse off properly leaving a filmy residue.  The wrong type of soap can also be a problem.  I have used dish soap in the past.  Many dish soaps have a high sodium chloride, AKA salt, content.  This can cause premature corrosion.  It is best to use an automotive soap and mix it according to the directions.

The last thing that I’ve always done wrong is abrasives.  A little steel wool will shine chrome up nicely.  It works by wearing away the top layer of chrome.  After years it will no longer shine.  Only use the strong abrasives for restoring a neglected bike.  It is much better to keep the chrome shiny by washing it regularly.    

By the end of the day I had spend about $30 in soap, micro fiber wash-rags and soft brushes but my bike is now clean and free of bug carcasses.  

If you would like detailed instructions of how to wash a bike visit Triumph’s “How to Clean Your Bike” page.